YSL Women’s Winter 21 Review

Saint Laurent is known for pushing the boundaries of fashion, proving it season after season. They create a perfect harmony between location, castings, and designs for every single show, this one being no different. 

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YSL’s runways are always the farthest from boring. Last season’s show took place in the middle of the Moroccan desert and a few seasons before that was hosted directly underneath the Eiffel Tower. Titled “Where the Silver Wind Blows,” Anthony Vaccarello’s production of this season’s show was located in a piece of Icelandic heaven. Cold, barren landscapes contrasted by beautiful waterfalls and icebergs set the scene for his newest collection. Vaccarello carved out a runway anywhere he could, from black sand beaches to muddy grasslands to wet rock formations. This is definitely in the running for one of the most visually appealing and creative shows of the 21st century, hands down. Vaccarello continues to outdo himself time and time again, each season’s production better than the last. 

It has been a common trend amongst designers to cast a small number of models for recent shows, particularly due to COVID restrictions. With a line-up of only 19 models for the 12-minute production, Piergiorgio Del Moro and Samuel Ellis Scheinman were the casting directors for this show (no surprise there!). Some familiar faces walked for the Winter 21 collection, including Steinberg, Anok Yai, Mica Argañaraz, and Alyda Grace. Steinberg is an industry favourite, working for the likes of Chanel, Versace, Celine, and Louis Vuitton in past seasons. It’s no surprise though since she has a demeanor and walk that could kill. Walking in six-inch heels on rocky ground is no easy feat, but every model made it look like a walk in the park. Honorable mention goes to Mika Schneider, whose first look was nothing but a bodysuit and stockings in below zero temperatures. 

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With a collection full of mini skirts and barely-there tops, Vaccarello debuted a very unconventional F/W collection. He still managed to make it winter-appropriate though, with the appearance of tweed coats and the occasional cardigan. Staying true to the YSL colour scheme, black, white, and silver were prominent colours used on the runway, with the famous fuschia and emerald duo. Vaccarello clearly couldn’t get enough of stockings this year, with every model dressed in them for at least one look. Extremely short hemlines and fur trim also paid homage to the prominent styles of the 60s. “It’s the shapes of the 60s with the colours of the 80s,” Vaccarello said about his newest designs (Vogue Runway). Even though this collection could potentially foreshadow a post-Covid lifestyle, Vaccarello made it clear not to take the collection too seriously and to live in the present moment. Taking his advice, don’t be surprised if you see someone sporting his collection at the grocery store! 


https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent

To watch the show: https://models.com/work/saint-laurent-saint-laurent-womens-winter-2021-show-where-the-silver-wind-blows

Isabella Hamilton