“Romanticism Gone Nonbinary”: Harris Reed and the Beauty of Fluidity
Responsible for Harry Styles's dress from the iconic December 2020 Vogue, Harris Reed has successfully and notably burst the bubble of high-fashion designers. Carrying the idea of gender expression and fluidity, Reed aims to raise an important conversation with their designs and “blur the preconceived fault-lines people have about gender and sexuality” (1). Taking inspiration from personally connected social and political events occurring in the world, Reed understands and harnesses the responsibility they know fashion carries and works around their brand’s ethos: “Romanticism Gone Nonbinary.” Harris Reed focuses on spotlighting the wearer’s identity and aura through a gender-fluid lens in fabricating self-expression and individuality.
During their studies at Central Saint Martins, Reed was discovered by Harry Lambert, fashion editor, and celebrity stylist. Lambert, a primary influence in Styles’s personal style choices, connected the designer and artist, birthing the relationship between the three creators who understand the strength that fashion holds in posing questions upon self-realization, fluidity, and expression. The smoking jacket, high-waisted and wide-legged pants, and the hoop skirt with white and pink fabric intricately draped over it was made in under six days. In their interview with Vogue for the shoot, Reed hints at their inspiration for the design, “It was really about Harry as a performer… He completely embodies who he is… I wanted to show that element of motion and drama, but in a still image” (2). Knowing this Vogue shoot would gain much traction on their personal beliefs about the power of fashion, Reed outlines their mission with their brand: pushing for a more “opulent and accepting world… fighting for the beauty of fluidity” (2). Unfortunately, the magazine’s shoot caused plenty of controversy from commentators who were outraged at a man wearing a dress. However, more positive than negative opinions were shared, and the team of Harris Reed, Harry Lambert, and Harry Styles flourished to showcase the gender-defying world of fashion.
Harry Styles photographed for December 2020 Vogue by Tyler Mitchell, this look designed and made by Harris Reed
Harris Reed had recently accompanied Iman to this year’s Met Gala while showcasing their design and vision. With the support of Dolce and Gabbana, Reed designed an aura-resembling gold ensemble. Featuring the base of a foil-printer gold bustier and flared pants, the notability came from the large crinoline skeleton skirt that draped layers of perky gold-painted feathers. Iman wore a headpiece that paralleled a radiant halo, made of the same material as the skirt that beamed complexion and spirit to complement the skirt. Taking their dream date to the Met Gala, Reed ensured a dazzling and show-stopping look inspired by 18th century’s proportioned crinolines and 1920s roaring showgirls, including a touch of 90s Jean-Paul Gautier.
Iman wearing Harris Reed at the Met Gala 2021: “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion”
After the Vogue cover shoot controversy, Harris Reed used this attention as fuel for their new collection: For Now, Unexplained. Unveiled at London Fashion Week back in January, the six-piece demi-couture collection was completely hand-dyed by Reed’s team of four. Displaying ambiances of burnt orange, deep purple, royal blue, Harris Reed explains to WWD that “the colors match so clearly this idea of auras. It’s different facets of a person or different stages of rebellion, which come together into that character’s most fluid self” (4). Intending to explore London’s visual history, Reed plays with the idea of conventional men’s wear in collaboration with traditional full tulle skirts.
Three designs from Harris Reed’s London Fashion Week collection, ‘For Now, Unexplained’
Traversing a new fashion gesture, I hope this theme of gender expression and fluidity is here to stay. Not only should fashion be a free form of self-revelation, but there also shouldn’t be a box in which what someone decides to wear is incorrect. While fashion holds considerable power in social and political stances, it should also be taken lightly when discovering a personal journey of expression and identity. Harris Reed, time and time again, takes on the responsibility of shaping a more inclusive world within the industry of fashion and is a young designer to keep a watch out for.
(1) https://www.harrisreed.com/about
(2) https://www.vogue.com/article/harris-reed-harry-styles
(3) https://www.vogue.com/article/iman-harris-reed-collaboration
(4) https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/harris-reed-fluid-fashion-harry-styles-vogue-cover-1234737773/