Style History: The Puffer Jacket and the Panini Loving Italians that Made it Cool.
In the last few years, puffer jackets suddenly became all the rage again. I distinctly recall a period of time where it was considered, “uncool,” to be seen in a jacket so marvellously warm and practical, since apparently all the cool people were freezing their asses off in cheap leather jackets, and even worse denim jackets.
Since then, its no question that puffer jackets have cemented themselves as a wardrobe staple. TNA’s Super Puff, Balenciaga’s infamous C-Shaped Puffer, Stone Island, Arcteryx, and almost every Moncler Jacket ever. You’ve probably seen it all. But it begs the question, how did puffer jackets invade the winter fashion scene? And where did this trend even come from?
The Puffer has its roots traced back as far as 50’s experimental fashion, but the puffer jacket as you and I both know it became an iconic staple of laid back practicality amongst the Italian youth of the 80’s, specifically in Milan. These trendsetters, dubbed, “ La Paninari,” were very much the middle child of Italian culture at the time. If you are wondering why their title sounds remarkably similar to the name of a sandwich, you’re on the right track. The name, “Paninari,” originated from the types of meeting places and hangouts that this cohort would often be seen at, nonchalant sandwich shops, diners, and fast food joints. Before La Paninari, Puffers bore the almost exclusive connotation of outdoor activities, skiing and football to name a few. Like recent times, few saw the glorious puffer as cool, or even remotely fashionable.
Disregarding metal music, and rejecting country music, both of which being the defining genres of youth culture, at the time. Instead, La Paninari opted to place leisure and the finer things at the centre of their lives, the most prominent being a dedication to luxury goods and vehicles. The second being Duran Duran. What resulted was an entire generation of youth divided. On the one hand, there were those who looked flyer than Ferris Bueller, Danny Zuko, and John Bender combined; La Paninari. On the other hand, there were those who aspired to be La Paninari.
Having an affinity for the finer things in life, the attire of the sandwich loving Italian youth reflected this, as they donned bright coloured Moncler ski jackets and Stone Island athletic wear, pairing them with cropped or ankle length Armani jeans and sometimes even Timberland boots, all of this happening way before it devolved into, “roadman chic.” Put simply, La Paninari loved two things the most, designer clothes, and leisurely lifestyle. They wanted the ability to transition perfectly from an afternoon ski trip, to an early evening apperitivo, so comfort, functionality, and exceptional branding were a must.
This eventually lead to the everyday adoption of a large variety of technical outerwear, resulting in what we now refer to as, “a distinctly Americana,” aesthetic amongst the Italian youth.
Fast forward a few decades, and puffer jackets have become synonymous with all realms of fashion, from Zara all the way to Balenciaga, all the while remaining the gold standard of comfort and practicality during the colder months of the year.
All thanks to a group of trendsetters, whose titles were inspired by a sandwich.