How One of The Biggest Luxury Brands is Responding Their Obsolescence

Dior’s captivating presentation of the Fall Winter 2020/2021 concept is just what the doctor ordered. “Le Mythe Dior” satiates the collective itch of wanderlust that no one, status aside, can reach. Matteo Garrone directs the piece with subtle parallels to the harsh realities of 2020, while fostering an intoxicating fantasy that enchants the viewer to miss its cryptic messages. 

The scene opens into the quiet focus of a Dior atelier. Ateliers meticulously refine miniature-scale haute couture gowns, each transfixed by every detail of their pieces.The ASMR-inducing foley of each assiduous stitch and tear accompanies a twinkling chime, preluding to themes of wonder and fantasy. The title screen “Le Mythe Dior” then appears, leading to the next scene where two men dressed in bellhop uniforms carry a trunk through the woods. The scene takes us through an enchanted wood as the men showcase the miniature couture samples to a series of mythical creatures— nymphs, mermaids, sirens— each more luminous and ethereal than the last. To summarize the feeling of this piece, Grimes’ wet dream made French-classical. 

I found the concept of fantasy and myth to be a fascinating choice for the video. The obvious intent to lend a ticket to fourteen-and-a-half minutes of escapism amid quarantine was my first observation; however, this choice is a double-edged sword.

Fashion shows are typically reserved for the elite and connected—and even once invited, there are obvious tiers of hierarchy in rows of seating. Amid coronavirus, designers worldwide have been forced to forgo these displays of grandiose. The popularization of youtube fashion shows has brought events people sell their souls to attend… to your couch. The inherent fantasy that is luxury dulls as it trickles down to the masses— think Michael Kors’ gradual transition from chic to available at Marshalls, or Gucci belts becoming a staple in sorority girls’ wardrobes. When it becomes accessible, it no longer possess that awe-inspiring quality.  Dior made the strategic choice to maintain its frisson-generation abilities with a direct allusion to fairytales.  This counteracts the tangibility that stifles the magic of the far-away, alien-to-most idea of ‘luxury’. 

 This accessibility paradox extends further into the disparity between the art itself and its viewership. With climbing unemployment rates and worldwide debts amid coronavirus, luxury products are inaccessible as ever. The fantasy, although brought into our homes, may feel further than ever. The idea of accumulating disposable income for a special, timeless piece has never been less relevant. 

The choice to create a fantasy, although central, was not the only temporally relevant piece of the video. Subtle nods to a post-war climate make for an interesting picture of the director’s vision of the world right now.  

The box of miniature couture samples takes us back to the Theatre De La Mode. Following WW2 in 1945, French soldiers carried trunks with clothing samples typically about 1/3 of actual size— identical to what takes place in Le Mythe Dior. Theatre De La Mode was created primarily in attempts to raise funds post-war, but also to revive the French fashion and luxury industry. At a time where unemployment is high and few are so lucky to afford luxuries, I believe the concept is sending a message of hope and revival. 

Additionally, the focus on whimsy and nature in art tends to surface in post-war climates. Art Nouveau (an art style which focuses on the imitation of nature) was born in response to the industrial revolution. The artists involved wanted to object to man-made structure both tangible and social by bringing nature back into focus. The vine-like exteriors of some Paris subway stations were created while Art Nouveau was popular. The trend resurfaced with hippies in the 70s, a familiar rejection of the system. Dior’s use of nature and aesthetics that strike similarities to this art movement hopes to reject sociopolitical structures amid the chaos that is 2020. 

The taunting, inaccessible nature of this fantasy in combination with post-war allusions makes this a fascinating and relevant piece. Other audiovisual YouTube fashion presentations like Chanel’s ‘CC’ featuring Pharell and Cara Delevingne have gone down in fashion/internet history— I believe this piece may go even further. The balance of contemplative reflection and blissful ignorance mirrors internal narratives many of us cycle through in this difficult time. To me, this video captures the essence of luxury in 2020 in a deep, meaningful way. Profound art emerges from times of struggle, and this video epitomizes that sentiment.